
This week's Info Manager reminded me of some events I've experienced that merit passing along to all our readers: being prepared for computer fires. . . .
[Quote: InfoManager] Recently, a gentleman posted information on the AUGD mailing list about how ZDNet's German site had a news story about computers and accessories burning. The iMac in this case didn't catch fire while all the PC caught fire and gave off dangerous gases.
A British member of the list responded with:
"One thing I have always recommended to anyone with a computer which they leave on all the time, is a little home office fire extinguisher. Most hardware/DIY stores sell ones suitable for electrical fires for $50-100 and they are SO important to have, just in case the worst happens. We even gave one away as a competition prize a while back."
Great idea for a MUG to do. [End Quote]
I also remember one fateful evening while working with the local Apple rep to do a demonstration of "Connectivity" for our SMUG user group meeting. Everything was going well, hooking up a Mac PowerBook to a Macintosh IIcx, until we plugged the SCSI cable into the IIcx. Immediately smoke began rolling out of the back of the computer.
No one would have seen it had I not put a lamp at the back of the IIcx to see what I was doing. Actually I didn't see it because I was facing the audience. But a person in the front row spoke up saying "Fred, there's smoke coming out of the computer!"
Of course where there's smoke, there's usually fire. Well, indeed I did jump back there and jerk the cable out of both the PowerBook and the IIcx. The PowerBook checked out okay, but the IIcx was dead.
What's important to point out here is that the smoke was the beginning of a smouldering bus card. Eventually it would have burst into flames had we not caught it in time. We've heard of many instances where hot components in computers eventually smoke, then ignite. If caught in time, fine. But if no one is around to catch it, the results could be disaster. What to do?
I learned many years ago, when our design facility operated a screen printing division that you cannot be too careful with volitile materials. We invested in very good fire extinguishers, and kept them in several locations, always charged and ready to go. Sage advice for any home or office owner.
Fire extinguishers come in several flavors according to the types of fires they are designed to put out. Class A fires involve paper, wood, cloth, rubber, and some plastics; where Class B fires involve flammable liquids, such as gasoline, paint thinner, grease, motor oil, and solvents. Class C fires are electrical in nature.
But don't get bogged down in semantics. A Class C extinguisher is what you want so that all three kinds of fires are covered. For your computer rooms, labs, or even your kitchen I strongly recommend a Halon extinguisher. If you've ever had a demonstration of how Halon handles any fire -- from kitchen to auto to computer -- you'll be convinced too.
Halon is useful for all Class A, B. & C fires and is recommended because Halon leaves no residue. The problem with most other extinguishers is they leave a thick, sticky coating on everything you shoot. (Except Co2 extinguishers.) Halon is the ultimate for use where there is valuable electronic equipment (such as computers) in use. In fact, most safe-rooms, and clean-rooms will have Halon in the automatic equipment which fogs the entire room when smoke or flames are detected.
Simply put, Halon being a heavy gas, sucks all the oxygen from the immediate area being fogged. Remove the oxygen and the fire is gone. Period.
Unfortunately, it has been shown to be harmful to the environment and OSHA and the Environmental Protection Agency recently put a halt on all Halon production. However, it is still utilized for fire extinguishing equipment based on existing stores and recycled stores of the gas.
Pictured at right is a typical Halon extinguisher. This one is marketed in the automotive industry, and can be purchased from most any hardware or automotive store. Halon is measured by weight. (Contacts and references are posted below.)
This unit holds a 1.25 lb. charge of Halon in a pressurized Steel cannister. It will discharge its Halon up to a range of 8 ft. A 1.25 lb. charge of Halon allows the user to "shoot" Halon at the fire for a duration of about 9.5 seconds. (The unit is 10 in. tall by 3.5 in. diameter overall.
Nine seconds doesn't seem like a lot, but it really is. In our testing we extinguished a vinyl ink fire of about 3 feet in diameter within a 2 to 3 second blast of Halon. If your fire is too big for nine-second blast of Halon, you would be advised to evacuate the premise immediately.
To deploy the gas, simply pull the safety pin, hold the canister firmly with one hand, and squeeze the handle aiming directly at the base of the flames, or source of smoke. In the case of computer fires, a 1-second blast into the air ports of the box should be sufficient. Wait a moment or so to make sure the fire does not re-ignite once the oxygen floods back into the area.
Owning and using such a device is easy and inexpensive. Hopefully you'll never need to use it. Locate the unit somewhere where it is accessible to anyone in the immediate area. Make sure they're familiar with its location and operation. Check the dial gauge on your fire extinguisher monthly. The needle on the gauge indicates whether the unit is operable or in need of recharging. When required, have the unit recharged by a qualified professional--you can usually find these professionals listed under Fire Extinguishers in your Yellow Pages. These units vary in price from around $30 to over $100. It's a little to pay for such protection should it ever be necessary to use it!
Keep yourself safe. Operate equipment in a safe manner. The last thing we need is an avoidable and manageable event turning into a disaster -- or tragedy -- with any readers of This Old Mouse...
Until next time, happy mousing.
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Fred Showker, Editor/Publisher UG Net News
The fire extinguisher shown is the Halon Fire Extinguisher, 1.25 lb., 10in x 3 1/2 in, Steel Canister, Chrome (PEL-A344T-Cfrom) from Drivewerks Online Catalog (888-280-7799) but many similar units can be found from such vendors as Sportys.com. Use your Yellow pages to find a local dealer, rather than buying online. The local dealer will support and stand behind your unit.
Some of this information was pulled from the 2003 Consumer Guide and Publications International, Ltd.
Another reference is FIRE! by Donna B. Yeaw; and What Are Halons And How Do They Work? published at FM 200, and H3R, Inc., the Aviation Fire Protection company.
Fred Showker is co-editor of "MUG Info Manager," the User Group Network News service, and a founding Apple User Group Advisory Board (UGAB) member. He was an original founder of the User Group Forum on AppleLink Personal Edition which became America Online in 1988 ... read more
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